A couple weeks ago I received an e-mail from the PR agent for Cristina’s Restaurant on Tanner Street in Haddonfield. She had apparently read my review online, written shortly after it opened in 2005 (SEE BELOW). She invited me to return as the restaurant’s guest, assuring me I would like it better since there had been a change in owners. What follows is my assessment of Cristina Ristorante Italiano one year later. Cristina Ristorante Italiano (4/8/06)
We arrived at 7:00 on a Thursday night, a time when Little Tuna and Tre Famiglia, to name a few, were bustling. Yet only two tables other than our own were occupied, a situation eerily reminiscent of our visit a little over a year ago … as a matter of fact, we were seated at the same table. We announced to our server that we were guests of the owner, and after a few minutes she returned saying that he was expecting us.
Not much had changed since our last visit, other than the easter-themed decorations in the picture window. I was as favorably impressed by the decor as I was the first time, although my wife and her sister thought the front window needed and elegant little tie-back curtain to set off and soften the window. The meal started with a basket of warm dinner rolls that might have come from Cacia’s Bakery in Blackwood. Unlike the last time, we didn’t make the mistake of ordering a separate salad because we knew one accompanied the meal, but we did order an Insalata Caprese for the table (3). My sister-in-law from northern California loves Caprese, and I read in a recent article on Cristina’s about a couple Philadelphia Flyers who order it religiously. So how could I go wrong? After all, I have been eating sausage pizza at Rexy’s ever since it was inhabited by Bobby Clarke and the rest of the Fly-guys.
The Caprese was a visual and taste delight. It was served “high” with alternating layers of fresh mozzarella and tomatoes drizzled with EVOO. A few small leaves of basil decorated the dish, but it needed a few more to give it the aromatic freshness of that most distinctive of herbs. And my demanding relative from wine country loved it as well. We also had an Insalata Mista with mixed greens, tomato and Caesar dressing. While the dressing was good, I was a little put off by the chilled salad which had been prepared in advance and refrigerated until served; some of the greens were a little limp. Next I sampled the soup special, a green asparagus and shrimp soup that was subtle and flavorful with incredibly tender shrimp. We brought a pinot noir and chardonnay that night but only one glass was offered to accommodate both. Our entree choices were Risotto Granchia, Vitello alla Marsala, and the seafood special of the evening, two soft-shell crabs over angel hair pasta. My risotto had a generous amount of shrimp, crab, and bay scallops, although I don’t think bays are as flavorful and sweet as those from the sea. The risotto was tasty but not as creamy as I like my aborio rice.
My sister-in-law liked the taste of the veal but thought it was a little tough. She did, however like the potato “croquette” with three cheeses that accompanied the dish. My wife’s crab dish was another story. Two crabs were pan-fried in garlic and olive oil. It tasted to me as though the garlic got a little burned in the process, and when the chef deglazed the pan with wine to make the sauce for the pasta, that burnt quality came along for the ride. Too much pasta and a little to acrid for my taste. The meal ended with a home-baked novelty, a cranberry cheesecake, which was excellent, but suffered when drizzled with a raspberry sauce that detracted from the cranberry’s tanginess.
So here we are, one year later, and I am still wondering what the future holds for Christina. As I said in my first review, the restaurant aspires to a white-cloth and candle sensibility but remains a little inconsistent at delivering a premium or authentic Italian dining experience comparable to say, Sapori in Collingswood. I met the new owner, Joey, and he is a charming and earnest young man who is really trying, but still has a way to go. The restaurant is neither “red” enough to qualify as a neighborhood joint nor special enough to earn a place among the stars. I wanted to be impressed … especially since I was a guest of the house … but I still find Cristina’s an incomplete dining experience.